Saturday, January 12, 2013

BROOMSTICK AND HIS LEGACY



BROOMSTICK and his Legacy
 By Catherine Sampson

Broomstick was foaled in 1901.  The smallish bay stallion with smooth lines and a beautiful intelligent head was by Ben Brush out of Imp. Elf,.  He would become a legendary sire garnishing an outstanding record of producing 74% winners; 25% (69) of these stake winners, far exceeding his efforts on the racetrack.

Bred by Colonel Milton Young and purchased by Captain Samuel Brown the following year, Broomstick raced for three seasons.  After winning his first three stakes races at age 2, he was thereafter heavily weighted for his young age.  As a result, it afforded him lesser wins.  During his racing career, the bull dog racer won 14 of his 39 starts winning $74,370.  His major wins included the Juvenile Great American, Expectation Stakes, Brighton, Flying Handicap and Travers Stakes.  He was retired to stud in 1906 at Brown’s Senorita Stud near Lexington, Kentucky.  Brown died later that same year and the estate dispersed the bloodstock.

Broomstick was sold to H. P. Whitney, purchased on the advice of his trainer.  Broomstick joined his son, Whisk Broom II at Whitney Stud.  During his tenure with Whitney, Broomstick traveled between Brookdale and Whitney Stud farm in New Jersey and Kentucky.  He was ranked leading sire in the U.S. for 3 consecutive years (1913-1915) and was Top Ten leading sire 17 times.  Among his greatest notable get were Whisk Broom II and the great filly Regret.


Like his sire, Whisk Broom II was a powerhouse with great tenacity.  Unlike his sire he stood an impressive 16.2 hands.  His golden chestnut colour made him a knock out for looks and his balanced frame provided the athletic prowess. 

As a yearling he was sent to England during the anti-gambling era which played havoc with the financial coffers of racetracks in the U.S.  While there, Whisk Broom II garnished considerable notoriety and success.  That record would be challenged on his return to America at age six.  His first race on U.S. soil would be The Metropolitan.  He would also have to be a quick study learning to run in the opposite direction for which he had been trained overseas.

Carrying 126 pounds, Whisk Broom II was rated at 5 to 8 early odds.  He didn’t disappoint his fans.  He closed 10 lengths to win, much to the adulation of those fans.

At 130 pounds, he captured the Brooklin Handicap, setting a new track record for this race of 2:03 2/5 for 1 ¼ miles. 

As his unrivaled brilliant performance was measured by these two previous races, Whisk Broom II was heavily weighted at 139 pounds for his next challenge just a week later; the Suburban Handicap. 

Through the stretch run, Whisk Broom II accelerated under the whip and bolted away winning by half a length over Lahore.  He did this despite giving a 44 pound advantage to his stablemate and 27 pound to his four rivals.  By the official clock, he had shattered his own personal best, including the American record held by his sire, Broomstick and Olambala of 2:02 and 4/5ths.  He had posted a record 2:00 flat for The Suburban.  Although this time was widely contested, the official time held and was entered into the racing history records. 

Broomstick’s reputation of producing tough, gritty horses with balance and grace can be summed up with one word; Regret.

Foaled in 1912 at Brookdale Farm, Regret would smash the barrier between colts and fillies.  A daughter of Broomstick out of Jersey Lightning by Hamburg, it would 65 years later before a filly would hold the title of Kentucky Derby winner again.  That filly was Genuine Risk.


Regret began her racing career at age two, racing with the boys as well as her own sex.  Twice she defeated the colts carrying 127 pounds.  In her entire racing career, she beat every filly and mare she ran with.  Out of 11 starts, she won 9 times and placed second once.  The only time out of the money was when she raced at five years, after a year sabbatical from the track.  That race was her wake up and only once did she relinquish her crown that season, coming second place in the Brooklyn Handicap. She lost that race by a nose to her stablemate Borrow.  She was retired to the breeding shed at the end of the season, completing a memorable and exciting racing career.

What Regret will be forever remembered, was her victory over the best boys at that time in the 1915 Kentucky Derby.  Who would have thought that a filly would beat the colts, but Regret did and did it in style. 


Carrying a weight allowance of 112 pounds for her sex, Regret captured the lead by half a length as the horses raced by the grandstand for the first time.  Regret steadily increased her margin of lead by 2 lengths ahead of the great colt Pebbles to win the blanket of roses and rewrite history.  This daughter of Broomstick had done what no other had.  The beautiful refined filly with her distinctive white head markings and level top line, took the crown from the boys and handily defeated them.   She was queen that day and reigned over the twin spires of Churchill Downs.

Broomstick’s offspring were determined and sound racers.  Then there was the extraordinary longevity runner, Tippity Witched.  Broomstick’s son raced for 13 seasons in 266 races winning 78 times, coming second 52 times and third 42 times. 

Broomstick went on to sire other greats including three Preakness winners:  Holiday, Broomspun and Bostonian and yet another Kentucky Derby winner named Meridian.   Broomstick died on March 24, 1931 at the old age of 30.  He was laid to rest not far from his son, Whisk Broom II.

They say it is in the genes and although Broomstick himself was a modest runner, his smoldering and hidden genetic profile, passed on greatness to his offspring.  This guaranteed him a place in racing history as a prolific sire.  

One should never judge the athletic ability and heart of a race horse solely on size and breeding.  One of the greatest sires of the 20th century was a small bay horse named Northern Dancer who was passed over at a yearling sale because of his diminutive size.   The rest is history.  The old saying goes, “good things come in small packages”.  That statement couldn’t be truer for Broomstick. 

Next time you hear the thunder of hooves coming down the stretch in search of the invisible wire, remember a little bay horse named Broomstick that sired greatness.  Perhaps the winner might be a descendent. 


Monday, January 7, 2013

FIRE IN THE LOFT





FIRE IN THE LOFT! By Catherine Sampson

The monotonous steady drone of the baler as it kicks out another bale leaving a cloud of brown dust in its wake, signals another steamy summer of making hay.  The dirty hot work of stacking hay in a mow is carried out in the barns all across the country.  Statistics provided from the Ontario Fire Marshal’s office show that in Ontario over a five-year period, 924 barn fires occurred with staggering financial losses amounting more than $64 million accompanied with untold emotional pain and suffering.  Some years were particularly devastating.  The correlation between weather conditions in a given summer and the number of barn fire investigations is suspected.

Preparing to receive and store hay is your first step in managing your hay supply.  Simple precautions and common sense practices should be followed.  

  • Since cobwebs are considered to be explosive in fire situations, it is prudent to clear and dust your hayloft. 
  • Check any electrical wiring including hay elevators and their motor housings and protective shields. 
  • Inspect your roof and air vents for leakage that can spoil your hay and contribute to decomposing bales causing hot spots.
  • To help lessen fire risks, hay should be placed on raised pallets and stacked loosely to increase airflow. 
  • If possible, stack hay in small stacks 2-3 bales deep.  Do not place bales against the barn walls, but allow sufficient space (several inches) for air circulation. 
  • Rotate your hay stock, placing older hay in front so that it is used first.
  • Install lightning rods to your barn.  (Some controversy remains about the value of lightning rods.)

Knowing how to monitor your new hay crop that is placed in your loft is the ultimate responsibility of every farm owner to prevent fire.  Small square bales of hay that have a moisture content above 20 percent, and large round bales at 18 percent or higher are prime candidates for spontaneous combustion fire. 

To determine the moisture content in your hay, a common household microwave oven and a small dietary kitchen scale measuring in grams, can be utilized to accomplish this task.  The following test can then be performed with great accuracy.

  • Obtain several samples by randomly selecting handfuls of hay from several locations in your hay field.  Subdivide the samples to be tested. 
  • Precisely weigh 100 grams of the “wet” forage, excluding the weight of the container.  (You will need to chop the hay into pieces of 1-2 inches in length.) 
  • Place this sample on a paper plate and spread thinly leaving the centre of the plate clear and open. 
  • To protect your microwave and guard against igniting the sample, it is recommended that an eight-ounce glass of water filled three-quarters should be placed in the back corner of the microwave during this testing procedure.
  • Heat the sample at a rate of 80-90 percent of maximum power for a period of four minutes.
  • Remove the sample at the end of this cycle, mix and weigh it.
  • Continue to re-heat at two-minute intervals, re-weighing each time.  To prevent charring of the sample, use lower heat and 30 second time intervals as it approaches final drying.  If the weight of the sample remains unchanged after two or three drying cycles, it is said to be 100 percent dry.  This becomes the final dry weight (W2).  A slightly burned sample will not drastically affect the accuracy of the moisture determination.  However, if the sample burns, the test must be repeated.
  • Below is the table used to calculate the moisture content:

Moisture content = (W1-W2) x 100
                                                                                                            (W1)

A large mow with little airflow can produce an internal temperature within a mow that can rise above 130 degrees F (55 degrees C).  At this stage, a chemical reaction occurs that produces flammable gases that will ignite when they come in contact with air. 
If the hay has been treated with a preservative, extreme caution should be used if this hay starts to heat.  Hydrogen cyanide gas will be produced at approximately 240 degrees F (115 degrees C) if the hay has been treated with ethoxyquin and butylated hydroxytoluene or BHT.  This gas is deadly if inhaled.

Tests have proven that the common practice of sprinkling salt on each layer of hay laid down to help draw moisture from the bales, has no benefit in controlling spontaneous combustion. 

Temperature in a haymow peaks within a week after baling.  The decline in temperature is slow, lasting anywhere from two weeks to two months.  Several factors such as outdoor humidity, bale density and cut hay that has received rainfall, contribute to the length of time the hay will return to a non-threatening state of combustion.

If you detect an odour similar to caramel or a distinct musty smell, your hay is most likely beginning to heat up.  By using a hay probe you will be able to assess the internal temperature of your haymow and take appropriate action.

Hay Probes

The most effective way of determining if your hay is heating up is to make a hay probe.  The simplest design is an iron or copper rod about 10-12 feet in length.  Place the rod into the centre of your haystack and leave it for an hour or more.  Once the rod is withdrawn from the hay, test the warmth of the rod cautiously.  If the rod is very hot to the touch and unable to be held in your hands, then you have a problem.

You can fashion an inexpensive and more accurate probe as follows:

  • Cut a ten foot length of electrical tubing.
  • Fasten a dowel made of hardwood that has been sharpened to a point at one end.
  • Drill a series of 3/16 inch diameter holes into the tubing above the dowel.  You will need 6-8 holes.
  • Attach a long string to a candy thermometer that can be purchased at a kitchen supply store for as little as $6. 

Once your probe is complete, drive the probe into the hay mass.  Lower the candy thermometer down the tube and leave it for ten to fifteen minutes in order to obtain an accurate reading.

What is TOO HOT?

The following temperatures and cautions will assist you in determining if your hay is heating and procedures to follow.

·       150 degrees F (65 degrees C) is a warning sign that your hay is at a danger zone.  The hay should be checked daily.
·       160 degrees F (70 degrees C) will require increased monitoring of your hay every four hours.
·       175 degrees F (80 degrees C) requires immediate removal from the hayloft.  If you suspect a pocket developing, contact your fire department.  A water truck needs to be on the premises since hay exposed to air may flame.  In some cases, hosing down the suspected hay prior to removal may be necessary to reduce heat levels.  Removing the hay should be done with the use of a logging clam or similar instrument.  Once removed from the loft, bales should be placed at a safe distance from the barn.  Evacuate your barn, relocating any animals that are housed within to an area that is secure. 
·       185 degrees F (85 degrees C) is a high alert situation where heating hay that comes in contact with air causing hot spots and possible flames.  Keep all doors and openings closed to prevent drafts.  In fire cavities of the loft, the potential for collapse when walking on bridged bales is a serious concern.  Long planks should be put down before entering the mow to begin work to remove bales.  In the event that a haystack collapses, tie a rope around your waist and have a second person available in a safe location to pull you to safety should the situation arise.

·       212 degrees F (100 degrees C) is critical.  As this temperature continues to rise, the hay will most certainly ignite.

Loft fires from spontaneous combustion are not an accident.   They are preventable by practicing good hay management. 

SAFE HORSE HANDLING






SAFETY FROM THE GROUND
By Catherine Sampson

Horse accidents are not confined to the saddle or cart.  The majority of mishaps occur handling horses.  Some of these cases can be of a serious nature, others minor.  Each are painful and in some instances, preventable.  Lost wages and loss of enjoyment with your horse are also consequences during convalescence.  Trod on toes, broken limbs and appendages, rope burns, head and back injuries, along with an assortment of cuts, bumps and bruises are an all too common occurrence. 

Horses are blessed with lightning fast reflexes for self-preservation.  Our response time to these sometimes unpredictable and rapid movements is relatively slow, especially as we age.  Our strength and balance is compromised when dealing with the horse.  Unfortunately, handlers are often in the wrong place at the wrong time when the horse takes flight.  That fresh horse being lead out to the pasture may get carried away in their exuberance.  The new mom may show over-protectiveness towards her foal.  That unpredictable baby might be blind-sided with temporary fear.  That young stallion may be testing his boundaries and you may become the target of his adolescent ways.  Simply grooming a horse or leading it out for a hack carries a degree of risk.  However, there are certain precautions and common-sense lessons that can be learned and applied.

 Safety Proofing your Stable

Creating a save working environment is essential. 

Repair uneven floors that may pose a tripping hazard.  Keep stable flooring dry and replace weak or substandard boards in your hayloft.  Fix loose boards and remove any exposed nails from stalls.  Store tools in a designated area.  The simple act of setting a rake down with the teeth of the rake facing against a wall will prevent accidentally stepping on the teeth, potentially resulting in a blackened eye, or worse, a fall. 

If you don’t have a phone in your stable, carry a cell phone or cordless phone.  In the event of any emergency, you will need to get assistance and may not be able to travel any distance to reach a phone. 

Have a complete first aid kit for humans in an easily accessible location and check your inventory on a regular basis.

Adjust crossties to a safe comfortable length and height for the horse.  Too tight or too loose are concerns.  The unyielding restraint from a crosstie adjusted too snugly can invoke the fight or flight response in the horse. A loose tie allows the horse too much freedom, resulting in possible entanglement.  Use quick-release snaps in the event of an accident.  If you are using straight ties, attach them high – not level with the horse’s head where the horse can pull with greater force.  (Trailer ties make handy straight ties.) 

Affix a quick release snap to the end of the tie that bolts into the wall and not to the halter of the horse.  It is much easier to get to a snap that is securely positioned, than attempting to release it from the halter of a frantic horse.  It also gives you a short shank if it is required, after the horse is released.

Apparel


The wearing of jewellery is a definite hazard when working in a stable.  Finger rings can get caught in a variety of ways, resulting in dislocations.  Earrings and other body piercing jewellery, including chains, necklaces and bangles also pose a risk.  The wearing of jewellery should be discouraged.

Safety boots or shoes maybe recommended when working with horses.  Some stables insist on them.  Grade 1 is the highest impact resistant certified boot for use in heavy industrial work environments.  Guidelines to meet this certification allow for metatarsal protection (upper foot bones and toe area), as well as guarding against electrical shock and sole puncture.  Sneakers, dress shoes, and sandals are an open invitation for injury.  Visitors to the barn should be advised of this potential danger.  Most non-horse people are unaware of this risk. 

Gloves should be worn when lunging, leading or loading a horse in a trailer.  They will protect against those nasty stinging rope burns while providing added grip.

As a precaution, always wear disposable latex or rubber gloves when handling medications in the stable.  Certain common drugs and ointments found in many tack boxes may unknowingly pose a health hazard to humans.  These powerful drugs with their concentrated healing properties are harmful if absorbed through the skin in minuscule traces.  This is especially important when handling sedatives, liquid based hormone therapy, such as Regumate, anti-inflammatory powders and gels, including certain antibacterial salves.  Remove the gloves by taking them off inside out and discard them in a sealed container. 

Helmets, especially the lightweight design, are an excellent measure of safety when working around young horses, stallions or new horses.   Head injuries are serious business and every precaution should be taken to guard against such injuries. Getting into the habit of wearing a helmet during grooming and turnout of fractious young horses is also a good practise to follow.  A playful rearing horse can inflict critical head trauma. 

General Handling Tips  


Pony Clubs and 4-H programs teach safety zones to young children.  For the newcomer to horses, ignorance of these many common sense simple rules can pose hazards.  Below are a few reminders. 

·       Never wrap a lead shank around your hand.

·       Lean over when working on lower limbs and hooves of the horse – never kneel.

·       Because of the horse’s field of vision, approach the horse from the side not directly in front.  You can startle a horse if it is unaware of your location. 

·       Remain close to the horse when walking behind it.  Standing three feet from the horse puts you in direct line for full impact at the end of the stroke from a kick. 

·       Never lead a horse without a lead shank.

·       Use a lead shank of sufficient length (nine feet is preferred) when leading horses to and from pastures.  Should a horse rear, you will need room to escape entrapment while still maintaining some control with a lead.

·       If a horse begins to bolt and your efforts to control it on the line become futile, let go.  Don’t become a victim of dragging.  If this habit of bolting becomes a common occurrence, use a shank with a chain placed over the nose to instill manners and correct the problem.

·       If a horse becomes nervous when approaching an object while being led, switch sides, putting yourself between your horse and its perceived danger.  By doing so, you not only encourage the horse to move forward, but also eliminate the possibility of the horse inadvertently knocking into you as it shies away from the object. 

·       Halters with a fixed bottom ring as opposed to loose sliding rings on adjustable chinstraps, are easier to attach a lead shank to.  This is especially apparent in fussy group situations when horses are crowding at the gate vying for position.

·       As a measure of safety, put the turnout gate between you and the horse before you release the horse into the pasture.  Teach the horse patience and make it stand before releasing.  A frisky horse can turn and buck in playfulness.

·       Enter a stall quietly, never in a hurry.  Let the horse know that you are there and watch the horse.  At feed times, give the hay ration first in order to distract the horse, taking its attention off of you and the grain bucket.  Some horses become very excitable when the grain bucket appears or is shaken.

·       Always be aware of where the horse is when departing a stall.  Back out if you can do so safely, placing yourself strategically in line with the stall door.  In the case of stallions or young colts, never turn your back to them.  Never become complacent.

Desensitizing


The sooner you start with a young horse, the better.  Even the mature horse can benefit from these simple desensitizing techniques.

For the problem horse when it comes time for deworming by syringe, make it a practise during your grooming sessions to insert a small syringe into the corner of the horse’s mouth.  A 3 cc syringe can be obtained from your local veterinarian.  Be sure to disinfect the syringe after use or between horses.  Once accustomed to the syringe, deworming will become a non-issue.

Another practice you can add to your grooming routine is to work with your horse under its tail and around the anus.  Most horses object to having their temperature taken, so desensitizing this area will prove beneficial should the need arise to use a thermometer.  Every domesticated horse will have its temperature taken at sometime in its life.   

For the young stud colt and future broodmare or gelding candidate, having the horse accustomed to being handled in sensitive areas will go a long way to eliminate protest, making the horse more agreeable. 
  

Other Scenarios


During the peak fly season when fly masks are in use, remove the fly mask before entering the stable.  The change in light may temporarily impair the horse’s vision.  For ease of removal, place the fly mask over the halter instead of underneath.

In winter months, stock up on safety salt for paddock paths and doorways.  As an alternative, standard cat litter or moist manure from the stalls spread out on ice patches will help. 

For the shy horse that avoids contact and is difficult to halter in a stall, attach a leather cow collar to its neck.  It will make your task easier for safely catching the horse in preparation for haltering.    Whenever possible, let the horse come to you when haltering.

If you come upon a horse cast in its stall, always approach the downed horse from the back side whenever possible.  A panicked horse’s flailing hooves can be dangerous.  To help right the horse, using the tail to pull the horse away from a wall may be useful.  If the horse is trapped in such a way that a tail pull is not enough, use a soft cotton rope or lead shank and loop it around a leg.  You then have some leverage to roll the horse over. 

Treating a horse without assistance is difficult.  However, many of us find ourselves in this predicament at one time or another. 

To help stabilize and calm a horse, a twitch may need to be employed.  The one-man twitch design works best in these situations, especially those that do not have attachments.  Fasteners that can swing perilously from a connecting string, when applying to an uncooperative patient, can cause possible injury to the handler and/or horse. 

Correct use of a stud chain can also be an effective form of restraint.  (Running the chain under the chin will provoke a horse to rear to escape the pain.)   

Picking up a front leg may also help in controlling the fidgeting horse.  Although sometimes awkward, you can often complete the cleansing and medicating task with one hand. 

A less effective measure of restraint is the shoulder roll.  Grabbing the loose skin mid way at the edge of the shoulder blade of the horse, roll your hand inward against the shoulder.  This is a mild form of restraint.

Chemical restraint should only be administered with the explicit advice and recommendation from your veterinarian. 

Working with your Veterinarian and Farrier


Often times an owner is uncertain as to their role as a handler assisting the veterinarian and farrier.  Below are a few guidelines that when followed, will benefit these professionals.

·       Create a quiet, noise-free environment while your veterinarian is examining your horse and taking vitals.  Turn the radio off and remain silent.

·       If the horse is sedated, loud sounds will disturb the horse.  Certain tranquilizers such as Rompin heighten the sensitivity of the horse’s hearing.

·       Use moderate, yet sufficient restraint when holding the horse and stay close at the side of the horse’s head. 

·       Minimal pressure on a lead shank is desirable when a veterinarian is floating teeth.  Too much pressure can only add more stress to the horse.  Too little pressure is ineffective.

·       A horse that is sedated will require careful handling.  When turning the horse, use large circles and allow sufficient time for the horse to complete the unsteady move.  A second handler should grasp the tail to help balance the horse when walking.  (As a side note, remove feed from a tranqualized horse’s stall.  Sedation slows digestion and an overload of feed introduced to a sluggish digestive tract may cause an impaction colic.) 

·       Crossties may not be appropriate when treating a horse.  If a horse should rear, bolt forward or pull back, the handler should be at a safe distance.  Never stand in front of a horse in crossties.  Attaching a lead shank may help, but most veterinarians do not recommend crossties when restraining horses for treatment.

·       While the farrier is working on your horse, a rule of thumb is to stand on the opposite side for front hooves and the same side for hind hooves. 

·       Although tempting, do not begin to discipline an uncooperative horse while the farrier is bent over working on a hoof. 

Your veterinarian and farrier may also instruct you further as to handling procedures that he or she prefers.

Regardless of how vigilant you are in your daily handling and working routines, knowledge gained and advice given from experienced stable grooms and trainers are lessons to heed.  You can’t wear a suit of armour while working around horses, but you can minimize the element of harm by being conscientiously aware of your surroundings and safety minded in your practices.

Here is a section on handling mares and foals that could be added if necessary.



Medicating foals and working with new moms can be a challenge. 

Be aware of your mare when addressing the foal.  A newborn foal can create an aggressive protective nature on the part of the sometimes-timid mare.  Approach with caution.  If you have been working on a regular basis with your mare prior to foaling, this will ease the tension. 

Administering medications and doing general foal care will require special attention.  By using a corner of the stall and the wall itself as a form of resistance, you can position your hip against the shoulder of the foal to hold it fast against the wall.  Lifting the foal’s tail also acts as a restraint in the event that the foal may attempt to rear and flip over backwards, possibly injuring it or the handler.  Even though a foal is small, their tiny hooves can impart a painful blow.  Restraint is a necessary evil for both you and the foal.