SAFE HORSE HANDLING

SAFETY FROM THE GROUND

By Catherine Sampson

Horse accidents are not confined to the saddle or cart.  The majority of mishaps occur handling horses.  Some of these cases can be of a serious nature, others minor.  Each are painful and in some instances, preventable.  Lost wages and loss of enjoyment with your horse are also consequences during convalescence.  Trod on toes, broken limbs and appendages, rope burns, head and back injuries, along with an assortment of cuts, bumps and bruises are an all too common occurrence. 

Horses are blessed with lightning fast reflexes for self-preservation.  Our response time to these sometimes unpredictable and rapid movements is relatively slow, especially as we age.  Our strength and balance is compromised when dealing with the horse.  Unfortunately, handlers are often in the wrong place at the wrong time when the horse takes flight.  That fresh horse being lead out to the pasture may get carried away in their exuberance.  The new mom may show over-protectiveness towards her foal.  That unpredictable baby might be blind-sided with temporary fear.  That young stallion may be testing his boundaries and you may become the target of his adolescent ways.  Simply grooming a horse or leading it out for a hack carries a degree of risk.  However, there are certain precautions and common-sense lessons that can be learned and applied.

 Safety Proofing your Stable

Creating a save working environment is essential. 

Repair uneven floors that may pose a tripping hazard.  Keep stable flooring dry and replace weak or substandard boards in your hayloft.  Fix loose boards and remove any exposed nails from stalls.  Store tools in a designated area.  The simple act of setting a rake down with the teeth of the rake facing against a wall will prevent accidentally stepping on the teeth, potentially resulting in a blackened eye, or worse, a fall. 

If you don’t have a phone in your stable, carry a cell phone or cordless phone.  In the event of any emergency, you will need to get assistance and may not be able to travel any distance to reach a phone. 

Have a complete first aid kit for humans in an easily accessible location and check your inventory on a regular basis.

Adjust crossties to a safe comfortable length and height for the horse.  Too tight or too loose are concerns.  The unyielding restraint from a crosstie adjusted too snugly can invoke the fight or flight response in the horse. A loose tie allows the horse too much freedom, resulting in possible entanglement.  Use quick-release snaps in the event of an accident.  If you are using straight ties, attach them high – not level with the horse’s head where the horse can pull with greater force.  (Trailer ties make handy straight ties.) 

Affix a quick release snap to the end of the tie that bolts into the wall and not to the halter of the horse.  It is much easier to get to a snap that is securely positioned, than attempting to release it from the halter of a frantic horse.  It also gives you a short shank if it is required, after the horse is released.

Apparel

The wearing of jewellery is a definite hazard when working in a stable.  Finger rings can get caught in a variety of ways, resulting in dislocations.  Earrings and other body piercing jewellery, including chains, necklaces and bangles also pose a risk.  The wearing of jewellery should be discouraged.

Safety boots or shoes maybe recommended when working with horses.  Some stables insist on them.  Grade 1 is the highest impact resistant certified boot for use in heavy industrial work environments.  Guidelines to meet this certification allow for metatarsal protection (upper foot bones and toe area), as well as guarding against electrical shock and sole puncture.  Sneakers, dress shoes, and sandals are an open invitation for injury.  Visitors to the barn should be advised of this potential danger.  Most non-horse people are unaware of this risk. 

Gloves should be worn when lunging, leading or loading a horse in a trailer.  They will protect against those nasty stinging rope burns while providing added grip.

As a precaution, always wear disposable latex or rubber gloves when handling medications in the stable.  Certain common drugs and ointments found in many tack boxes may unknowingly pose a health hazard to humans.  These powerful drugs with their concentrated healing properties are harmful if absorbed through the skin in minuscule traces.  This is especially important when handling sedatives, liquid based hormone therapy, such as Regumate, anti-inflammatory powders and gels, including certain antibacterial salves.  Remove the gloves by taking them off inside out and discard them in a sealed container. 

Helmets, especially the lightweight design, are an excellent measure of safety when working around young horses, stallions or new horses.   Head injuries are serious business and every precaution should be taken to guard against such injuries. Getting into the habit of wearing a helmet during grooming and turnout of fractious young horses is also a good practise to follow.  A playful rearing horse can inflict critical head trauma. 

General Handling Tips  

Pony Clubs and 4-H programs teach safety zones to young children.  For the newcomer to horses, ignorance of these many common sense simple rules can pose hazards.  Below are a few reminders. 

·       Never wrap a lead shank around your hand.

·       Lean over when working on lower limbs and hooves of the horse – never kneel.

·       Because of the horse’s field of vision, approach the horse from the side not directly in front.  You can startle a horse if it is unaware of your location. 

·       Remain close to the horse when walking behind it.  Standing three feet from the horse puts you in direct line for full impact at the end of the stroke from a kick. 

·       Never lead a horse without a lead shank.

·       Use a lead shank of sufficient length (nine feet is preferred) when leading horses to and from pastures.  Should a horse rear, you will need room to escape entrapment while still maintaining some control with a lead.

·       If a horse begins to bolt and your efforts to control it on the line become futile, let go.  Don’t become a victim of dragging.  If this habit of bolting becomes a common occurrence, use a shank with a chain placed over the nose to instill manners and correct the problem.

·       If a horse becomes nervous when approaching an object while being led, switch sides, putting yourself between your horse and its perceived danger.  By doing so, you not only encourage the horse to move forward, but also eliminate the possibility of the horse inadvertently knocking into you as it shies away from the object. 

·       Halters with a fixed bottom ring as opposed to loose sliding rings on adjustable chinstraps, are easier to attach a lead shank to.  This is especially apparent in fussy group situations when horses are crowding at the gate vying for position.

·       As a measure of safety, put the turnout gate between you and the horse before you release the horse into the pasture.  Teach the horse patience and make it stand before releasing.  A frisky horse can turn and buck in playfulness.

·       Enter a stall quietly, never in a hurry.  Let the horse know that you are there and watch the horse.  At feed times, give the hay ration first in order to distract the horse, taking its attention off of you and the grain bucket.  Some horses become very excitable when the grain bucket appears or is shaken.

·       Always be aware of where the horse is when departing a stall.  Back out if you can do so safely, placing yourself strategically in line with the stall door.  In the case of stallions or young colts, never turn your back to them.  Never become complacent.

Desensitizing

The sooner you start with a young horse, the better.  Even the mature horse can benefit from these simple desensitizing techniques.

For the problem horse when it comes time for deworming by syringe, make it a practise during your grooming sessions to insert a small syringe into the corner of the horse’s mouth.  A 3 cc syringe can be obtained from your local veterinarian.  Be sure to disinfect the syringe after use or between horses.  Once accustomed to the syringe, deworming will become a non-issue.

Another practice you can add to your grooming routine is to work with your horse under its tail and around the anus.  Most horses object to having their temperature taken, so desensitizing this area will prove beneficial should the need arise to use a thermometer.  Every domesticated horse will have its temperature taken at sometime in its life.   

For the young stud colt and future broodmare or gelding candidate, having the horse accustomed to being handled in sensitive areas will go a long way to eliminate protest, making the horse more agreeable. 

  

Other Scenarios

During the peak fly season when fly masks are in use, remove the fly mask before entering the stable.  The change in light may temporarily impair the horse’s vision.  For ease of removal, place the fly mask over the halter instead of underneath.

In winter months, stock up on safety salt for paddock paths and doorways.  As an alternative, standard cat litter or moist manure from the stalls spread out on ice patches will help. 

For the shy horse that avoids contact and is difficult to halter in a stall, attach a leather cow collar to its neck.  It will make your task easier for safely catching the horse in preparation for haltering.    Whenever possible, let the horse come to you when haltering.

If you come upon a horse cast in its stall, always approach the downed horse from the back side whenever possible.  A panicked horse’s flailing hooves can be dangerous.  To help right the horse, using the tail to pull the horse away from a wall may be useful.  If the horse is trapped in such a way that a tail pull is not enough, use a soft cotton rope or lead shank and loop it around a leg.  You then have some leverage to roll the horse over. 

Treating a horse without assistance is difficult.  However, many of us find ourselves in this predicament at one time or another. 

To help stabilize and calm a horse, a twitch may need to be employed.  The one-man twitch design works best in these situations, especially those that do not have attachments.  Fasteners that can swing perilously from a connecting string, when applying to an uncooperative patient, can cause possible injury to the handler and/or horse. 

Correct use of a stud chain can also be an effective form of restraint.  (Running the chain under the chin will provoke a horse to rear to escape the pain.)   

Picking up a front leg may also help in controlling the fidgeting horse.  Although sometimes awkward, you can often complete the cleansing and medicating task with one hand. 

A less effective measure of restraint is the shoulder roll.  Grabbing the loose skin mid way at the edge of the shoulder blade of the horse, roll your hand inward against the shoulder.  This is a mild form of restraint.

Chemical restraint should only be administered with the explicit advice and recommendation from your veterinarian. 

Working with your Veterinarian and Farrier

Often times an owner is uncertain as to their role as a handler assisting the veterinarian and farrier.  Below are a few guidelines that when followed, will benefit these professionals.

·       Create a quiet, noise-free environment while your veterinarian is examining your horse and taking vitals.  Turn the radio off and remain silent.

·       If the horse is sedated, loud sounds will disturb the horse.  Certain tranquilizers such as Rompin heighten the sensitivity of the horse’s hearing.

·       Use moderate, yet sufficient restraint when holding the horse and stay close at the side of the horse’s head. 

·       Minimal pressure on a lead shank is desirable when a veterinarian is floating teeth.  Too much pressure can only add more stress to the horse.  Too little pressure is ineffective.

·       A horse that is sedated will require careful handling.  When turning the horse, use large circles and allow sufficient time for the horse to complete the unsteady move.  A second handler should grasp the tail to help balance the horse when walking.  (As a side note, remove feed from a tranqualized horse’s stall.  Sedation slows digestion and an overload of feed introduced to a sluggish digestive tract may cause an impaction colic.) 

·       Crossties may not be appropriate when treating a horse.  If a horse should rear, bolt forward or pull back, the handler should be at a safe distance.  Never stand in front of a horse in crossties.  Attaching a lead shank may help, but most veterinarians do not recommend crossties when restraining horses for treatment.

·       While the farrier is working on your horse, a rule of thumb is to stand on the opposite side for front hooves and the same side for hind hooves. 

·       Although tempting, do not begin to discipline an uncooperative horse while the farrier is bent over working on a hoof. 

Your veterinarian and farrier may also instruct you further as to handling procedures that he or she prefers.

Regardless of how vigilant you are in your daily handling and working routines, knowledge gained and advice given from experienced stable grooms and trainers are lessons to heed.  You can’t wear a suit of armour while working around horses, but you can minimize the element of harm by being conscientiously aware of your surroundings and safety minded in your practices.

Here is a section on handling mares and foals that could be added if necessary.

Medicating foals and working with new moms can be a challenge. 

Be aware of your mare when addressing the foal.  A newborn foal can create an aggressive protective nature on the part of the sometimes-timid mare.  Approach with caution.  If you have been working on a regular basis with your mare prior to foaling, this will ease the tension. 

Administering medications and doing general foal care will require special attention.  By using a corner of the stall and the wall itself as a form of resistance, you can position your hip against the shoulder of the foal to hold it fast against the wall.  Lifting the foal’s tail also acts as a restraint in the event that the foal may attempt to rear and flip over backwards, possibly injuring it or the handler.  Even though a foal is small, their tiny hooves can impart a painful blow.  Restraint is a necessary evil for both you and the foal. 

 

LEARNING THE ART OF LONG LINING

LEARNING THE ART OF LONG LINING

By Catherine Sampson

The art of long-lining, is a developmental skill which is beneficial for both equestrian and horse.  It is used extensively in the training of the harness horse, but is equally important as a training tool for the riding horse.  Learning and perfecting the art of long-lining has a lasting and enhancing effect on your horse’s ability to bend and flex, work in straight lines, engage the hindquarters improving cadence and lighten in the bridle.  It also teaches patience.

Many professional trainers of both gaited horses and young novice horses use this technique as part of their training regime.  Everyone can learn how to long-line, providing they are willing to commit to the time and focus to perfect this skill.  Done properly, your horse can attain a greater level of ability and athleticism.

What equipment is required?

Ideally, a bitting rig and side check bridle with crupper would be a first choice.  This is a relatively inexpensive piece of equipment to purchase.  A regular saddle and bridle can double in place of a bitting rig, but you have far less flexibility when using this combination.  If a bitting rig is not obtainable, a surcingle with several ring positions is also preferred.

You will require long lines to complete your equipment.  Leather driving lines are recommended, but in their absence, a set of soft cotton longe lines can be substituted.  (Nylon lines are not recommended, as they tend to be too light and abrasive.)

Your bit should be a snaffle type.  I recommend a half-cheek driving snaffle that would not allow the bit to slide through the mouth.  Egg Butts or D-Ring snaffles of medium thickness are also recommended.  A leverage bit (one that contains a shank) is not ideal for this purpose.

The handler should outfit themselves with a sturdy pair of snug fitting driving or riding gloves.  This is a necessary piece of apparel you will require.  If you are not accustomed to wearing gloves, this is the time to get acquainted.  Leather or simulated leather is the choice of glove.  Bare hands invite injury.  A driving whip is also a required piece of equipment. 

 Where to start?

In European countries, the rein board is used extensively to help educate the novice in the handling of their lines and whip.  We use this apparatus for teaching our driving clients and those learning to longe horses for the first time.  It allows the student the opportunity to hone their skills and develop a feel for the line.  The rein board is more forgiving than the horse when the student makes a mistake or is awkward in their technique.  Once perfected, the student can advance to the horse.

Practice makes perfect so learning how to take up line quickly, quietly and safely is not only good for the horse, but also equally kind to the handler. 

Fitting Equipment

When using a surcingle or backpad, be sure to place the pad approximately one-hand’s width behind the base of the horse’s withers.  It should not be placed at the base of the withers.  A crupper worn under a horse’s tail helps hold the backpad in place and prevents it from riding forward.  However, a horse must be conditioned to wearing a crupper first. 

A side check on the bridle allows some freedom for the horse, but prevents the horse from lowering his head too far.  The check should be adjusted to the natural head carriage of the individual horse. 

The rings of the surcingle that guide the lines to the bit from the backpad, graduate down with the least resistance coming from the top ring of the back pad, to the highest leverage pressure with the bottom ring.  It is recommend to begin with the top ring, or the path of least resistance to begin your long-lining.

Positioning for Long-Lining

Finding the most desirable and safe zone in which to begin long-lining is the handler’s first priority.

Stand approximately eight feet behind the horse and six feet off to the side of the horse on the inside circle that you wish to eventually turn.  Never stand directly behind the horse when in motion and driving forward.  You could become a target of flying hooves and would never hold a bolting horse from this position. 

Before you start, accustom your horse to the feel of the lines by gently touching its sides with the lines loose, beginning high on the back and then continuing down to the lower leg above the hock.  Don’t allow the lines to travel any lower than hock height.  One caution is that you should always have an assistant for safety reasons.

Combining voice commands with a whip aid, encourage the horse to walk forward.  You want to maintain light but continuous contact with the bit.  If you allow your lines to slacken and therefore lose contact, your horse will wander.  On the other hand, too much contact will confuse the horse.  It may lay on the bit, stop, or try to evade the pressure by going sideways.  Head tossing is also another clue that your rein pressure may be too severe or unyielding. 

Working a corner or circle requires the handler to pay particular attention and coordinated with the horse.  If you simply follow a horse through a corner, you lose contact and direction.  As you approach a corner, you must let the horse take the lead and hang back slightly slowing your pace in order to maintain rein contact with the bit as the horse begins to bend.  Bending a horse around a corner is often the most difficult task of long-lining that a novice must learn. 

You will carry your whip at a 45 degree angle to the ground and to the reins.  From this position you can swing the whip into the required area you need for direction.  A whip is considered an aid and should be carried when long-lining.  As in driving, the whip replaces a rider’s legs.

As you progress in developing your long-lining skills, you will include changes of direction.  To accomplish this next step, the rein in which direction you now wish to go, comes over the horse’s quarters first.  For instance, if you want to turn right, the right rein first passes over the horse’s hip.  Next you take a step behind the horse then quietly lift the opposite rein over the horse’s back until you are now positioned on the other side of the horse.  Take this step of direction change slowly and quietly.  Do not rush it or become confused with your lines.  It should be a smooth slow transition.

When asking a horse to bend, make a straight line back to your hip using your hand and forearm in one singular motion.  Don’t pull your rein out to the side, or break your wrist out.  It should be a clean line from your hand to forearm straight back to your hip.

Moving Ahead

Once you can maintain a consistency to your long-lining at the walk, you may proceed to the next gait.  Start with collecting your rein to compensate for the horse’s shorter frame when it goes to the trot.  Shorten just enough to accomplish this task and keep a light open rein so that you don’t create a stonewall affect on the bit by having a tightly closed fist.  Using your voice command and the light touch of a whip aid, encourage the horse to move forward into the bridle and up to the trot.  The skills you have just learned will now be intensified at the trot and your reaction and reflex will be tested.  Again, you want to strive for smoothness in every movement.

Your changes of direction at the trot will be carried out identical to those you have practiced at the walk.  Remember the emphasis will be on timeliness and smoothness.  Use your whip to encourage more forward motion as required, or to help with correction.  Keep in mind it is a tool and should not be just held in the hand totally passive at all times. 

Lastly, don’t forget the halt.  Having a horse stand quietly and straight in long lines goes a long way in teaching the horse patience, especially when mounting.  Use a watch or clock and time how long your horse stands.  One minute is a considerable amount of time. 

Once mastered, long-lining is a tool you can use throughout your horse’s active life to keep it supple and performing at its best.  Drive on!

HANDLING THE STALLION

HANDLING THE STALLION by Catherine Sampson

Our mind takes us into a world of fantasy as "The Black Stallion" rides into our imagination.  We visualize ourselves with such a noble beast and rationalize our emotions to bring this vision to a reality.  With a little shake of the head, the Hollywood script falls out of our mind's cluttered cupboard of childhood dreams, awakening us to our mature senses that such an embracing trust between human and stallion is best left on the big screen.  Oh, but wouldn't it be something to have such a handsome creature parading our paddocks in such perfect harmony.

There are numerous backyard breeders throughout the province who are somewhat living the dream.  For others, it's that cute little colt their mare had last spring that just might make a good breeding prospect.  In most cases, common sense prevails and the colt is gelded before too long.

Owning and breeding a stallion requires commitment, time and discipline.  It is a serious business and a lot of thought and preparation should go into one's consideration of such a venture.  Entertaining this notion of owning a stallion should be followed up by asking yourself a few questions.  Do you have the proper facility to house a stallion?  Do you have the experience and skill in handling a breeding animal?  Do you have the ability to evaluate a mare's cycle?

 

The life of a stallion is not glamorous and can be very lonely in isolation.  Most colts are better off as geldings, granting them the freedom to socialize in their domesticated world and avoid the trap of stable vices so often manifested in confined stallions.

The Stallion Candidate...

If you are involved in the pleasure or show arena, a breeding stallion's disposition should reflect that environment.  Hot, doesn't necessarily mean unmanageable or difficult.  Pleasure should be just that - an enjoyable personality.  Therefore, first and foremost should be its temperament.  Even if you have a very handsome and correct colt, if it is unpredictable, aggressive or even flighty and worrisome, it will be no picnic for you as its caretaker.  Many a time, the responsible breeder will critically evaluate a colt and geld it if all things are not equal.  Just remember that it takes a good stallion to make a great gelding!

Whenever selecting an individual for a breeding program, you have a heavy responsibility to the breed you have chosen to help perpetuate through your efforts.  All breeders should strive to produce the best they can and to ensure that the breed and, just as important, its characteristics, are protected for future generations with structurally sound foundations.  Just deciding it would be nice to have a foal or two to raise or possibly sell, does not constitute a conscientious stallion or mare owner.  It runs deeper than that. 

Stud School...

The education and handling of stallions begins at birth.  Although stallions should be treated no differently than any other horse, certain precautions are necessary. That cute bouncing baby boy on the end of a lead shank should not go unchecked.  Too often people make the mistake of not recognizing and correcting a potential problem when it first begins, even in, and especially during the baby phase.  The playful rearing and mock battles can result in a serious blow to humans later on.  Those love nips could eventually tear or break an arm.  This saucy adolescent behaviour must be corrected immediately, before it becomes a serious threat to safety.  The testing colt must be taught what is acceptable behaviour and what is not.  This doesn't mean beating him senselessly, but it does mean being immediate and consistent without compromise in punishment.  It is in your own interest to take charge of the situation.  You are not its playmate.  You are its partner.  You must ultimately earn and demand respect from this mature 1,000 lbs. plus equine. 

The act of breeding stallions is not solely a job designated to men.  On the contrary, more and more women are handling stallions than ever before.  Brains more than brawn is required in the breeding shed.  The brawn part can be adequately managed with restraint training and appropriate apparatus.  The job of the stud handler requires common sense and alertness, accompanied with a calm, take-charge attitude in these situations.  In fact, the one holding the end of the lead shank in their hand becomes the herd leader or dominant influence.  In most cases, handling the mare can be more challenging.  I personally make it a point to know my stallions' character and manner and to have their total respect and undivided attention.  If you are at all intimidated by a stallion's physique and strength, then I suggest that you leave the business of handling the stud to someone else.  There is no room for fear or second guessing when working with stallions.  Even the most mild mannered stallion can become a Jeckle and Hyde in the breeding shed.  Hormones are nature's strong motivator, so maintaining absolute control of the situation and environment is paramount.

A stallion should not on the other hand be totally stalled and only brought out for the occasional stud duties.  They are not just breeding machines.  They possess the same basic needs as their gelded brethren.  A stallion requires companionship and plenty of exercise to keep him both happy and fit.  For instance, in our own breeding program, our stallions are used for either show or recreational purposes.  They are ridden and/or driven alone, and in the company of others.  They have been taught to work amicably with their neighbours and to display good manners at all times.  This is something we insist upon.  Stallions are often misunderstood and given bad press.  If a stallion is unruly, it is usually the result of poor management, rather than the stallion being labeled as mean spirited.  It seems they can either be blessed with what nature has provided, or cursed because of it.  A lot of this depends on habitat.

Enter into the Breeding Shed...

Stallions to be bred must be taught a sort of protocol.  They are creatures of habit and so a routine devised for breeding purposes should be forged.  This usually involves a selected and specific site, as well as maintenance of the stud before and after breeding.  The often neglected job by gelding owners concerning sheath cleaning will take on new meaning.  Without getting into a lot of technicalities, it is suffice to say for this article that there is a whole host of methods and procedures for hygiene, including mare preparation and pre-breeding rituals that requires knowledge and skill.  It is important to remember that many applications are invasive to the horse and must be dealt with using extreme caution.

Always choose your handling equipment wisely, such as the quality of the stud chain for instance.  Have sufficient length of line to be at a safe distance during breeding.  Carry a whip and do whatever you have to in order to keep the situation in your arena, not the stallion's.  At all times, the handler should be conscious of the stallion and be prepared to be unyielding and firm if any infractions of the rules occur such as "rushing" or charging a mare.  This can have disastrous effects and can be potentially dangerous for everyone.  Savaging (the fanatic biting of the mare's neck, flanks, etc.) should not be tolerated.

A Word about Pasture Breeding...

Although it seems simplistic to let nature take its course, there are enormous risks associated with this practise.  Serious injuries to both horses could be sustained.  Infections could occur if proper maintenance and control of the mare and stallion is not followed.  Would you really want to subject your valuable stallion or favourite mare to possible injury or disease?  Why not take advantage of all the advancements made in equine reproduction to assist you in having that special package arrive safe and healthy next spring. 

The Stallion, the Horse...

Stallions by nature have that special personality which sets them apart from their more docile brothers and sisters.  Learning to work with the stallion by displaying mutual respect, will result in a problem-free breeding session. 

Take the time it takes and give him a pat once in a while.  Reward him with a kind word during your daily grooming and stable routine.  You want him to be a staunch ally and friend who will dutifully obey under all circumstances.  Then, perhaps only then, can you allow that mystical "Black Stallion" to be a part of your everyday life at the farm. 

·       This article has appeared in “Horse Talk Magazine” and on numerous world websites.

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF LUNGING

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF LUNGING

By Catherine Sampson

The act of lounging is more than simply having a horse run in circles on the end of a long line.  It differs from the round pen reasoning training, a form of free lounging, which has gained in popularity over the last decade.  Lounging (aka Lunging) is a skill that is applied in teaching the horse many avenues of communication.  It combines the horse’s keenest natural sense, that of hearing through voice, as well as utilizing body language to engage position and pace of gait.  Done correctly, lounging promotes discipline of the horse, balance and cadence.  It is one of the most basic tools available in starting a young horse or re-schooling a difficult or damaged horse. 

In all forms of training, safety should be considered.  Rope burns from a line that travels through the bare hand at tremendous speed, can inflict searing pain while blistering the skin.  Wearing protective gloves can eliminate this hazard and provide greater grip on the line for improved control.    

In all groundwork involving horses, safety boots and protective headgear are recommended for the trainer.  Taking care in handling your equipment and being alert when training is essential.  Complacency results in accidents.  More incidents happen off the horse than in the saddle.  Preventing injury is the essence of good training practices.   

 Although a fine stitched leather caveson or an enclosed round pen are excellent choices, they are not necessary.  You can lounge successfully on a budget.  Shopping for equipment is not difficult or expensive.  There are a wide variety of lounge whips and lounge lines available to consumers.  Preference might be towards a soft cotton line over light nylon.  The weight and texture of the line will give the trainer a better feel and balance.   Handle the lounge whips before paying the ticket price.  Does the stock feel balanced in your hand?  Can you endure holding the weight of that whip for lengthy periods of time, or should you choose one of a lighter construction?  Is the lash too long and cumbersome?  These are questions you will have to ask yourself in order to choose the appropriate product that accommodates your personal preference.

Take care to adequately protect your student from injury and tendon stress.  Apply protective leg wraps and boots when working on the line.

First Lesson

A horse won’t naturally walk a circle.  Circles must be taught.  Begin by leading the horse in a circle.  With each revolution, increase the distance between you and the horse until the horse will comfortably maintain direction without standing a few inches from your shoulder but instead several feet. 

Your whip is the extension of your arm and becomes the motivator and forward impulsion to encourage the horse to move ahead.  It is an integral part of your training tools that should always be present and used.  How you hold and position the whip will ultimately determine the success of your training sessions. 

Once the horse has mastered walking a circle unaided, you will begin to assume the position that will benefit your communicating abilities most effectively.  Consider that your hand close to the horse’s head directs the forward motion and the hand holding the whip is responsible for the impulsion from behind.  That leaves the trainer’s body that is then aligned with the corresponding body of the horse.  This creates a perfect “V” which now becomes the anchor point for the lounging exercise. 

This anchor point is lost when the trainer begins to chase the horse rather than direct the horse.  If you happen to be one of these individuals, an easy cure for this “chase the horse” syndrome, is to place a square of cardboard or plywood approximately two feet square on the ground and use it as a marker point.  Stand on this base and remain on it while working the horse.  It will force you to use your whip more effectively, and correct body position.  

When a person falls out of the “V” position and moves forward towards the shoulder area of the horse, it impedes motion and the horse breaks gait, slows, stops or even turns in.  The horse responds appropriately to the position as if a person was leading it.  A horse is taught to walk and stay beside us, rather than pushing ahead and is usually reprimanded for bullying its way along as it becomes strong on the lead.  Stalling on the lounge line is not necessarily a case of laziness on the horse’s part.  Rather, it may be the result of lost or diminished impulsion from the person on the end of the line who is responsible for engaging the horse. 

 The Senses of Training

Body language is critical.  It can be supple or aggressive, depending on the urgency and response to command.  Since hearing is known to be the keenest natural sense of the horse, voice instruction, or more importantly, tone of voice, is a highly effective tool.  The vocalization should reflect the nature of the command intended.  For instance, the command to “walk on” should be strong and upbeat.  The command “trot” should be quick and short as the gait implies and so on.  The transitions down to a walk should be similarly slower and softer in tone.  The command to halt or “whoa” should be strong and abrupt.  This command is singularly the most important voice command your horse should learn.  Having brakes during flight responsive situations can avert disaster.    

In coordination with your voice commands, the placement and direction of the whip reinforces the spoken word.  Transitions up should be accompanied with an elevation in whip.  Conversely, transitions down require lowering of the whip until the lash rests on the ground when the final command to halt is given.

 Ineffectiveness of normal voice and whip commands requires increased body language to correct and improve performance on the part of the horse.  A horse that gradually or constantly cuts in, requires the whip placement to be directed towards the shoulder.  Most horses are predictable with this behaviour, often choosing the identical location to turn into the circle at each revolution.  Preparing for this inevitability and placing your whip before the horse begins to cut, should correct the problem.  The horse must respect the arm of the whip and stay on the circle. 

A horse that lugs and is lazy in its response to commands can benefit from increased drive.  To accomplish this, the trainer must first shorten their line in the lead hand and move their shoulder of the whip hand forward and inward to the horse’s hindquarters.  Constant cracking of the whip does nothing to induce a faster pace with a slow mover on the line.  It is not only annoying to everyone; it is without merit or substance as a training tool.  The horse quickly learns to tune the noise out, much like a person turning a deaf ear to repeated nagging.   

A good trainer will observe its pupil and make necessary adjustments to the exercise program.  Watch how the horse carries its head and frame.  A nose tipped to the outside is a horse that is not focused.  It can also pull out and reverse.  The lounging horse should carry its nose straight or slightly to the inside.  The line should move freely in and out, like trolling with a fishing line.  A stubborn line that is fixed and unforgiving creates heaviness in the horse.  Short quick tugs on the line will help refocus the horse’s attention. 

Changes of direction can be accomplished in various fashions.  All reverses should start from a halt on the circle.  The trainer can direct the horse by body signals or walk to the other side of the horse and then ask the horse to move off in the opposite direction.  The trainer should lower its whip to the ground and pass it under the lunge line to the other hand while changing line hands.  A whip whose lash is flinging in the air will disturb the horse.  Should the horse move when walking to the other side, stop, reaffirm the “whoa” command, and then continue to take up position on the other side of the horse. 

Having the horse face you and walk towards you can lead to a vice.  Horses can quickly deduct from the habit of walking towards the trainer, that they are in control of the situation.   If you allow this practice to continue, you may have difficulty directing your horse back onto the circle.  The horse will quickly learn that if it turns it, the lesson is interrupted. 

Once your student has acquired basic position and voice commands, you can build on your instruction.  The horse can learn to lengthen its stride, relax its gait, flex and obey the trainer’s commands.   A horse well versed on the lounge line will work at ease for its trainer and carry out the commands explicitly to the letter.  The working horse on the line should be able to halt within two strides from a trot on the line, simply responding to the voice command.  It should be able to reverse on command with little direction.  The ultimate test for the lounging horse is to have it work at liberty, solely from the direction of voice command.  You will then have accomplished the art of lounging.