The Farm at Shelburne |
Four
ladies who had never traveled together before, but held the common thread of
horse lover that bound them in friendship, embarked on a journey that would
take them to the green mountains of Vermont and the Adirondacks of New York
over the next four days.
Each
passenger on this adventure would soon reveal their own unique personality that
richly blended with others for the enjoyment of the trip.
Phyllis
was the “take charge” person in the group.
Ruth was the mischief-maker who liked to knock on men’s rest room doors
among other things; Carolyn was the one who became known as the wrong-way
driver, while I was simply referred to as “the boss”. The Boss would later be known for spilling
things on herself or dropping things in her tired stupor. Just couldn’t seem to hold on to anything for
long.
By
late afternoon, the car was piloted into the parking lot of the American Morgan
Horse Association Headquarters and Museum.
After touring the hub of Morgan activities, it was off to the
motel. A not-too-friendly innkeeper who
confirmed their reservations with a rude politeness first greeted me. After
surveying the premises and finding just one lonely small bar of soap and two
towels which was to be shared by four adults, Phyllis took it upon herself to
ask for additional toiletries and linens. Big mistake… The manager was outrageously indignant when
Phyllis made her plea. He insulted her,
and turned away with the parting words – not to comeback to this establishment
again. There was no worry of that! It upset everyone, but not for long as the
modern buggy was spurred on to dinner at the famous steak house down the
road. After a waddling good feast, the
ladies decided to go for a stroll to burn a few recent calories they had just
acquired. Off to a mall with Carolyn
solidly behind the wheel.
It
was becoming more apparent as the miles passed by, that our volunteer chauffeur
had a bit of dyslexia when it came to white directional arrows on the black
pavement. It seemed that the downward
arrow meant forward to Carolyn and the upward arrow meant backwards. She just couldn’t get the hang of those
arrows, no matter how many times she encountered them.
As
the ladies began to march ahead with great gusto, Cathy and Carolyn quietly
faded into a local popular hunt – Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Parlor, while
Phyllis and Ruth continued their trek to conquer fat cells.
That
evening, Ruth decided to entertain the sleeping quartet with her own musical
renditions of Miss Piggy. You see, there
is no subtle way to put it - Ruth snores.
Oh dear, now the whole world knows!!
Carolyn was too scared to move too much and awaken “the boss”. She was the most silent member of the sleeping
quartet. We never heard from Ruthie
again, so I don’t know if she ever got any sleep after we teased her so
much. Probably felt so guilty (as Ruth
does) that she must have stayed up all night thereafter. There was no more snoring from her pillow for
the rest of the trip.
After
a restful night for Ruth, the rest of the weary travelers packed their bags and
departed from the dust bunny motel post haste.
It was a glorious day in the comfort of the Cadillac as the car gently
followed the slow bends, opening up a new delight of landscape with each curve
in the road. As the car climbed the last
roadway to the Inn and found a shade tree to park under, the doors opened and
everyone stepped back into another time.
You could feel the ambiance of the old Vanderbilt/Webb estate beckoning
you into its great vista rooms. They
were decorated with freshly cut flowers from the ground’s own Victorian
gardens. We were graciously greeted and
invited to visit the estate before breakfast.
Out through the wide screen doors, we ventured onto the tranquil and
endless manicured lawns and wonderful gardens that lay before us with Lake
Champlain as the backdrop.
After
sampling the English garden with its fragrance, herb patches and beauty, the
four of us strolled slowly back to the Inn and were ushered into the great
dinning room. Like ladies of nobility,
we were seated in the grand hall. Once
again the décor of the room, the elegance of the fine china and bouquet of
flowers made for such a pleasing sight.
Classical music played softly as we enjoyed the fresh fruit cups, crepes
and other delights. Soon it was time to
leave the inn and hop on the wagon tour of Shelburne Farms.
The
guide was pleasant enough, but Ruth, Phyllis and Carolyn thought that my
version of the history of the farm was much more interesting. After all, Bob and I had first hand knowledge
of the farm when we stabled and raced Trillium Reflection on these very grounds
15 years ago. Both of us have visited
and toured the farm many times since then and had watched its restoration from
the beginning. Each time we came, we
acquired a little more history of the majestic model farm that once totaled
more than 4,000 acres.
Everyone
was awestruck by the Mule Barn with its inner courtyard that equals two
football fields and the large corner turrets and copper roofs that stand boldly
on guard against the blue sky. This
building once housed more than 100 mules in its day. Now it is home to one the country’s finest
cheddar operations, with the cheese made from the farm’s own prize dairy of
Brown Swiss cows.
There
was one special tour of the farm yet to be taken and that would prove to be one
of the highlights of the trip. The
Breeding Barn or horse barn was now opened for tourists and so we horse crazed
ladies boarded a van for the spectacle we were about to be treated to.
I
had heard the stories of the magnificent riding arena that was a marvel in its
day and still is today. The story goes
that Dr. Webb imported the finest Hackney stallions to be put at stud for the
local farmers to improve their stock.
What Dr. Webb didn’t understand, was that Vermonters already had what
they considered the perfect horse – the Morgan, durable and strong enough in
the mountains and in the fields, fancy enough for a carriage. Why fix something if it isn’t broke. His kind offer of his prized Hackney
stallions’ services for little or no stud fee, had no takers. The proposed breeding program of Dr. Webb for
the local inhabitants was a failure.
Adding insult to injury, the advent of the car, eventually over-shadowed
the horse and its prominence in transportation and farm labour. His beautiful stable and dream was abandoned.
The
stable had fallen into disrepair over the years and was sadly neglected. However, funding was found to restore it and
what a prize it is.
As
you enter through the mighty stone arches of the building, it is the immense
size of the structure that literally takes your breath away. Imagine if you will, a riding arena more than
400 feet in length and over 140 feet wide.
Imagine that facility filled will 60 box stalls, tack rooms, coach
rooms, a balcony overlooking the arena, and a hay loft that goes on
forever. Imagine the hustle and bustle
of grooms and trainers doing their daily routine. Once again, just imagine life with the horse
and carriage and how it must have been in this place so long ago.
The
great stable is looking for a purpose as the tour guide explained. They are thinking of hosting special events
and market type activities. Being the
horse people we were, we simply blurted out with all the enthusiasm we could
muster – “it should be used as it was originally intended – it should be used
for horses!” Novel idea, the tour guide
suggested. “We’ve never had that idea
put forth, but then again, we never had horse people before.” She must have thought us a little strange,
but the more she lingered on our proposal for horse events, the more she seemed
to like it. She must have thought those
people from Canada have some good ideas!
We suggested a number of activities from polo matches for charity fund
raising, to a Vermont showcase show for the Morgan Horse.
We
said goodbye to Shelburne Farms and headed south to Middlebury and the UVM
Morgan Horse Farm. It would be our final destination of sightseeing for the
day. One quick stop at a tack shop along
the way, and then on to UVM.
The
young lady giving the tour (which happened to be the last tour of the day) was
rather lackluster in her presentation.
Her “ho hum” guided tour was met with just as much enthusiasm by her
guests. She seemed a little off guard
when I filled her in on some bio of some the farm’s famous residents, such as
UVM Dexter (Moonraker’s sire) and the great world champion stallion, Royal
Fleetson. Of course, being an old timer
in the breed I knew my Morgans and was quite willing to share some bit of
history with friends, even if the official tour guide didn’t.
Off
to the famous Middlebury Inn. We decided
to dine in the inn’s pub room. We chose
the room because of its name – “The Morgan Room”. Photos and paintings of famous Morgans hung
on the wall. The food was excellent and
the evening most enjoyable. Take Charge
Phyllis took charge all right and stumbled on her way up the grand staircase to
the ladies room. After dinner and a
quick walk about the historic town, we headed back to Shelburne and our new
accommodations for the evening.
After
a restful night, we awoke to rain – lots of rain. Ruth was our weather person who checked
conditions every morning on her way out for a run. I don’t think she ever did get a run in. We dressed accordingly and headed off for our
complimentary breakfast at the little establishment down the road. You have to wonder when something is
free. Believe us, nothing is free.
We
crowded into the tiny restaurant waiting patiently for our turn to be
seated. There were line crashers that
day (not us) and a restaurant that was short of staff and short on temper. We would later comment that a few of the
waitresses needed a “happy pill”. After
an infinitely long period of time standing elbow to elbow, Take Charge Phyllis
decided to investigate the seating situation and report back. She marched forward, but with discretion,
only to be quickly ushered back in line by the sergeant-in-arms. It didn’t seem to matter that some ignorant
patrons pushed their way by us and seated themselves. It seemed to be the “pick on Canadians” day
at the restaurant and other patient individuals.
Phyllis
decided she might pour us some coffee while we were waiting and headed towards
the deserted coffeepot. Take Charge
Phyllis was once again dissuaded when one poor desperate soul grabbed the pot
to pour himself a cup. “That’s against
the law, sir” the waitress bellowed for all to hear. “You can’t serve yourself in here.” A little embarrassed – or maybe a lot
embarrassed, he retreated back to his seat.
Eventually we got service – well maybe not what you would call service. As we were seated waiting for the waitress to
finish taking our orders, Ruth’s school mom training came alive. Ruth gritted her teeth every time the
waitress opened her mouth. It became a
joke eventually. All you had to do was
look at Ruth and try not to laugh. Her
face said it all. So, at every
restaurant, we had a few chuckles when the waiter or waitress tripped up on
their grammar and repeated such slang terms as “OK” and the like. We wasted no time exiting that place. Out in the pouring rain we dashed to the
car. It was off to Shelburne Museum for
a day’s adventure.
Only
Phyllis had the foresight to bring an umbrella and it was far too small for all
of us to fit under. In the gift shop,
Ruth and Carolyn decided to purchase the over-inflated priced clear garbage bag
rain ponchos. (Phyllis had another word
for it, but it can’t be printed here – something to do with what the male
species might use on occasion, if you get my drift.) I declined to purchase the flimsy plastic
and said that I wouldn’t melt in the rain.
Sure enough, the rain stopped mid way through the tour.
We
managed to take in about one third of the sites before leaving to catch the mid
afternoon ferry across Lake Champlain to New York state. Timing was perfect when Carolyn turned into
the parking area at dockside. She was
particularly nervous when the cars were being loaded onto the ferry. Parking attendants guided each driver into
their prescribed tight space on the lower deck.
There was barely enough room to open your door and exit the
vehicle. All Carolyn could do was think
of Bob’s car and that she better not scratch or ding it. It might be an old Cadillac, but it was still
as Cadillac!
The
ferry ride would take one hour to reach the shores of New York State. Everyone enjoyed the scenery, even on a
cloudy day. The shoreline was always in
view. Rocky projections of small islands
jutted out of the water like stone green icebergs. We decided to scout the waterline for signs
of the mystical lake monster “Champ”.
It probably wasn’t sunny or warm enough for Champ to surface for a
visit, as he was not sighted.
Once
the car rolled off the lowered drawbridge of the ferry, we headed what we
thought was north towards Lake Placid.
Mistakenly we followed the highway (pardon me, that should be “route” as
they call the highways in the U.S.) 9N, assuming
that “N” meant north – NOT. But being of
the female persuasion, we didn’t drive too far out of our way before logically
stopping to verify directions. (I don’t
know what it is about men, but they would never admit to being lost or
helpless.) Ruth, the only available lady
in the group, liked the look of the attendant who gave us proper
directions. We told her she was robbing
the cradle, but that didn’t seem to deter her.
She liked his smile, at least that’s what she said. Back south we headed and picked up 9N that
eventually headed north towards Lake Placid.
On
route we decided to find a rest room so that we might be more comfortable. After a long stretch of scenic but winding
highway, we came upon three signs – “clean”, “flush”, “toilets”. Carolyn decided to signal and turn into the
gas bar when Ruth noticed one more sign – “Phil Has Worms”. That was the kicker that turned us all off –
and so without missing a beat, Carolyn signaled back onto to the road and we
continued. I don’t think the bait sign
went well with the theme of clean washrooms!
Soon we found a respectable place with washrooms, but once again,
Carolyn had some difficulty in the rest room.
All I could here from a frantic sounding Carolyn was the word
“SHI…..” You see Carolyn had drop the
car keys in the toilet bowl. Since I was
the one with dropsy, this wasn’t expected from Carolyn. Luckily she had just flushed the toilet so at
least the water was clean and the keys hadn’t penetrated any further. After a little try off, the keys turned over
the ignition and off we were again.
Eventually
we found our way to the Olympic town of Lake Placid. Wrong Way Carolyn some how made it into the
parking lot of the motel, but only to the annoyance of other drivers trying to
navigate around this detoured blue Caddy that was determined to come in the
wrong way.
Our
accommodations were spacious and quite nice – pool side too. Unpacked and ready for food, we strode off
again to the Cadillac with Wrong Way Carolyn, who once again, thought that they
had painted the angle parking lines wrong.
We
found a nice pasta place to dine at.
After dinner Take Charge Phyllis headed for the washroom. You have to understand something about
Phyllis. She has great difficulty
figuring out those little people characters you see posted on the washroom
doors. So in she went – INTO THE MEN’S
WASHROOM! Hardly frazzled by the
episode, she excused herself and went into the appropriate bathroom. One fellow told Phyllis that she might be
quite welcomed in their rest room. I’m
not sure if that was a compliment? There
would be other episodes (two more in fact) where Take Charge Phyllis would
enter the sacred domain of men. In one
of these instances, Wrong Way Carolyn followed right behind Phyllis into the
men’s room only to notice a man standing there in bewilderment. Ruth inevitably had to ask the question –
were his hands up or down? Carolyn was
so embarrassed; she just wanted to make the quickest exit as possible. And Take Charge Phyllis didn’t even notice
the man!!
Once
back in the hotel and after an evening swim in the pool, we decided to get
ready for bed. We all seemed thirsty,
but only Ruth was still dressed. Ruth
devilishly encouraged myself and Carolyn to come with her to the vending machines
down the hall. So Ruth headed off along
the passageway with Carolyn in her PJ’s and a sweater, and me in my “Pooh”
nightshirt and jacket. Strange looks
were given by the passerby. These
vending machine vixens turned a few heads while they were dropping their coins
in the machine, as Ruth of course (the famous lamp post lady) made the most of
it.
In
the morning, after one of Ruthie’s marathon morning put together, we left the
hotel for a “shop till we drop” outing.
I think every boutique and antique store in Lake Placid saw our faces
and sometimes wallets. Ruth made her big
purchase in one of the antique shops; an ornate lead/brass clothing hook
featuring a large horse head in the centre.
She was so worried about Customs that she had us all going. She was afraid she would be over her limit
and for those of you who know Ruth, she kept repeating “I can’t lie”. Wrong Way Carolyn assured her that it would
be fine since the rest of us weren’t over our limit and she could just pond off
some of her purchases to one of us.
Still Ruth was skeptical and continued to repeat the commandment “Thou
shalt not lie”.
Exhausted,
we made one more trip to Ben & Jerry’s before opening the trunk of the car
one last time and making tracks north to Canada.
The
border crossing was a non-event, much to Ruth’s relief. I thought Carolyn handled the nice customs
officer well. We stopped for dinner one
last time and reminisced about our trip.
We must have made an impression in the restaurant as one old gentleman
came over to our table to compliment us on our sense of humour. He told us we would all live long lives if we
kept that up.
So
as we headed out the door, once again Take Charge Phyllis entered the men’s
room. I don’t know, but I think her
husband should know about her wayward tendencies….
Finally,
the car turned down a familiar driveway and the trip was over far too
soon. We gave each other a hug and said
goodnight.
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